Lots of dogs stare out the window and bark when people, dogs, cats, birds or cars pass by. This can be a problem for owners in the house, neighbours and may be upsetting for the dog.
The problem: Your dog alert barks, or worse, fear barks at most passers-by. Every time he barks, the thing goes away. In his mind, your dog has successfully made the “bad man” go away. This will increase the chances of him barking the next time something passes by the window!
Easy solution: Lower the visual stimulus. If your dog can’t see what’s out there, he is less likely to bark. You can move the sofa, close the drapes or the blinds, but your home may not be set up for this, and/or you don’t want to darken the room 24/7.
Spray bottle method: Instead, take a spray bottle of water and lightly mist your window frame. Cut bubble wrap (the smaller the bubbles usually the better) to fit over the pane. Place the flat side against the damp glass. It should stick and stay until you peel it off, without any adhesive.
If this doesn’t lower your dog’s visual enough, you may want to invest in window privacy film, which is available in a variety of colours and patterns from hardware and homeware shops, Amazon and seasonally, Lidl stores. You might also need to reduce the noises from outside: leaving the radio on, or an audiobook playing can help mask sounds.
Long term solutions: When you are ready to train, remove the bubble wrap, and counter-condition your dog to each passer-by, preferably before the barking starts. As soon as your dog notices the “bad man” pop treats into his mouth, one after the other until the person is out of sight. Immediately stop the treats.
Teach a ‘quiet’ cue: Thank your dog for alerting you, then walk over to his bed (away from the window) say ‘all done’ and drop several treats onto the bed. Although this may not reduce barking overall, it can give you an ‘off’ switch, without reducing alert barking. Teach this separately, when your dog is not barking, so you can use it when he is.
Yelling at your dog, startling him with rattle cans, squirting him with the water bottle or other punishment methods may not be effective as your dog may not view it as punishment, or the need to bark and the reinforcement he gets from barking may be greater than the punishment issued. Additionally, if it is fear based barking, adding more stress through punishment is likely to increase barking at times when punishment is not applied, and generally make your dog feel worse about what he is barking at.
If you need help with any of the training methods in this article, contact Marta at Barking Up the Right Tree to schedule a session.
“He’s very protective of me,” bragged the owner of the German Shepherd I had been called out to evaluate. “He won’t let anyone near me.”
Indeed, her 18-month-old Shepherd was telling me in every line of his body that he did not want me anywhere near him. Head down, eyes wide and staring, muscles tense, and softly growling, he was not a dog I had any desire to approach. He was not, however, “guarding” his owner.
Many fearful or insecure dogs act just like this Shepherd, growling and posturing when people come near their special person. However, their body language tells the true story: these dogs are worried. Their weight is often shifted over their hindquarters, and they rarely position themselves in between the new person and their owner. They lack confidence, and make up for it with their “the best defense is a good…
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Negativity bias – We all suffer from it.
This is the phenomenon in which we naturally pay more attention to and give more weight to negative information and experiences compared with those that are positive. It is this particular cognitive bias that causes us to be more hurt or discouraged by insults or criticism than we are pleased or encouraged by compliments and shining reviews.
It’s hardwired: We cannot easily escape negativity bias. Research studies have shown that the human brain actually experiences stronger neural activity when reacting to negative information compared with when we are given positive information. As a result unpleasant experiences are inevitably more memorable to us than are pleasurable ones.
Why do we have it? Our negativity bias is thought to have evolved as a method for keeping ourselves and those we love out of harm’s way. Think about it like this – your chances of survival are greater if you have a natural tendency…
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Source: The Sniffing Post
Source: Do good dogs go bad?
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I’ve written about medicating anxious dogs before, and it’s such an important topic that I want to touch on it again. There are so many misconceptions surrounding this subject.The idea that anxiety medication should only be used after everything else has been tried is so sad and harmful, and is a myth I encounter on a regular basis. Let’s clear up some of the fog surrounding this common misconception.
Before we get any further, please remember that I am not a veterinarian and I don’t play one on the internet. The information contained in this blog is not meant to diagnose or prescribe, and is only provided for your information. I’m drawing from my experience as a certified veterinary technician, canine behavior consultant, and the owner of an anxious dog to educate you, but your best resource is always going to be a licensed veterinarian.
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I get phone calls from people very concerned that their pup or dog is growling at them, or more worryingly, at their children. People believe that a growling dog is a threat and that the dog is dangerous because of one or two instances of growling. I like to reassure people that a growl is NOT a direct threat, and in fact, is the dog trying to communicate rather than intimidate.
Reasons for dog and puppy growls:
Play. This is a very specific growl and usually accompanies having dropped a toy or grabbed a trouser leg and starting to tug, or indeed, in the middle of a game of tug. Puppies growl to initiate play with other puppies – play fight if you will. Like little kids name calling or poking to get the other one to chase or engage in rough and tumble. There is nothing wrong with play growling, so long as it is in context (the dog is indeed playing) and low-key. The excitement of play, either between two or more dogs or between a dog and a human can indeed escalate to something a little more serious. If growling in this situation becomes intense, its time to halt the games. Its a good idea to build pauses in play, or call your dog out of play (releasing it to go play again if appropriate) every few seconds to ensure that it doesn’t get out of hand.
- Pain. Post-surgery, during an illness or an older dog may grizzle and grumble and even growl when touched if it is in pain. Here, the communication is “that hurts, please don’t”, even if it is not accompanied by whining that we would usually associate with an animal in pain. If your dog starts growling suddenly when touched, check in with your vet.
- Resource Guarding. Your dog has something he wants to keep and he thinks you or the kids are going to take it away from him. Many people (and indeed ‘old school’ trainers) will tell you the solution is to take away the toy/food/place by force. However, if you look at this from the dog’s point of view, he was growling to tell you he really wasn’t done with that bone, and you took it from him anyway. Like the rude waiter clearing plates before everyone is done eating, you chip away at your dog’s trust every time you ‘steal’ (in his eyes) that sock he was chewing on. In this situation, trade your dog for something better. You want that sock back? Give him a biscuit. You need to put his bone away because the cousins are coming over? Sprinkle a few pieces of cooked liver or a small handful of roast chicken a few feet away from your dog and wait for him to go to the food before collecting the bone. Teach your dog to voluntarily drop items like toys in exchange for food and another play session so that he knows giving things up doesn’t mean they go away forever. If your dog IS resource guarding, please get in touch with a qualified, modern trainer to help you and your dog work through it.
- Emotional discomfort. Your dog isn’t happy with strangers petting him. He doesn’t like the neighbours’ dog to come closer than 5 feet. Again, you wouldn’t make your child play with the neighbour kids if he wasn’t comfortable with them. You wouldn’t let a stranger touch your child without both your and her permission. In these cases, simply allow for your dog’s emotions and create space between your dog and the things he growls at. In the home, this can be accomplished with baby gates or keeping your dog next to you on lead when there are people in the house. This is another situation where a behaviourist or trainer with behavioural knowledge can help you work through with counter conditioning and other force free methods.
Aggression. Some dogs do have aggression. We can’t always know why, but studies show that it is based in fear in 90% of cases. If you cannot pinpoint what circumstances cause your dog to show aggressive behaviour, speak to your vet about possible underlying medical conditions before consulting a qualified behaviourist in your area.
Whatever the cause of your dog’s growling, it is vitally important that you do not punish the growl. Punishing communication will not make your dog’s emotions change, but it may remove the early warning signs that your dog is unhappy and he may take more direct action to change his circumstances if he is no longer allowed to growl.
What do do – listen to your dog. If he growls at the kids, teach them to stop what they are doing and give him more space (and to not repeat whatever they were doing prior to the growl). Same goes for adults and other dogs. For out in public, teach your dog an emergency U-turn or to tuck himself in behind you so that he has a barrier between himself and the person or dog he doesn’t want to be near.
What not to do – take offense at your dog’s communication, any more than you would if the person standing next to you on the train asked to you to give them a little more room. Don’t try to ‘dominate’ your dog by shouting, pushing, staring, hard-touching, muzzle holds or other aggressive means of ‘showing you are boss’. These techniques are either going to supress the growl (again, not changing how the dog feels) or be seen as an aggressive display which may cause him to react with a snap or a bite.